Monday, March 9, 2009

A Walk around Aconcagua

Cerro Aconcagua, 6,952 meters, is the highest mountain outside of the greater Himalaya. From Feb 11th until the 22nd, I completed a trek all the way around the mountain.

The adventure I chose had two parts.

First, circumambulate the mountain carrying all my own gear, and using only public buses to get to and from. Many climbers attempt the normal routes each year, and the vast majority use jeeps, mules, and porters to ensure they do little in the way of carrying much on their backs.

Second, attempt a new route on the north-east face, just to the right of the Polish glacier.

Mule train while approaching via the Horcones Valley.

Plaza de Mulas basecamp. Most days I was on the mountain evening snowstorms followed relatively good daytime weather.

This storm cleared in time for an amazing sunset. My little tent at Nido de Condores.

From Nido de Condores on the normal route, I climbed to 19,700, and then began traversing the lower North Face. The route I had in mind was clear on the other side of the mountain. Eventually I arrived at a camp just below the Polish Glacier. In the photo above, the route is pretty much directly over my head, up mixed ground to steep rock below the summit.

I spent 3 days and 3 nights at my high camp, with clearish weather, but constant gale force winds. As you can see above, the wind constantly strips snow from the upper mountain in a huge, billowing plume.

The view of Aconcagua, on the left, up the Relinchos Valley as I descend. The winds were too strong for me to stick my neck out on the unexplored terrain I wanted to climb. A few climbers summitted via the normal route on the other side of the mountain during this time. I was looking for something different, and never really considered summitting via an existing route.

Waiting for the bus... 11 days, 65 miles, 7800ft to 20,000ft and back down to 7200ft again. It was a good adventure. And good exercise too!















Monday, March 2, 2009

Coming Soon... Aconcagua and return to Cordon del Plata

Back to the States tomorrow...

Photos and details soon...

Have enjoyed lots of time to think on things, and even more not thinking and just BEING PRESENT.

Monday, February 9, 2009

Adventures in Cordon del Plata, Argentina

Just arrived back in Mendoza, Argentina after a week in the closet sub-range of the high Andes.

My camera and I couldn´t get along, so none of those fabulous photos. These are borrowed from summitpost.org

I summited Cerro Rincon ,5300meters (17,490ft), the big peak above, three and a half days after leaving Mendoza at 2800ft. This is awfully fast to climb this high, and I thought I would blow a gasket there for a few hours there.

The following night, at Campo Salto de Aguas (14,200ft), all hell broke loose. Katabatic winds gusting to 100 mph nearly destroyed everything. I had gone to sleep buck naked, and struggled to hold the tent upright from the inside, get dressed, and pack my kit for what seemed like the inevitable destruction of my little home.

Argentine Army soldiers scurried for cover as their training mission became the real deal at 0337. The outfitters who maintained two gigantic steel and canvas tents were left to duck and dive as one of these beasts sailed away over a cliff , flying away into the night. Impotent, we ate cookies and drank beer after buttoning down the hatches.

Things slowly settled to an amazing dawn. Lightning storms rolled over the plains below. Reports say that I snored through the last few hours of tempest. Shell shocked soldiers crawled out of the rocks, and everyone was miraculously unhurt. My tent survived, with just a couple of others. Chairs, bits of tents, and God only knows what else lay scattered below the cliffs that Salto sits on top of.

In the following few days, I climbed two likely new rock routes with a Kiwi, Jaime Foxley. Here´s his and his wife Katie´s blog http://jkfoxley.blogspot.com/

The first is on the buttress of Los Amarillos immediately above Salto. 250 meters of fun, sometimes vertical scrambling, on red ´rock´ that thousands of andinistas have looked at before and had the good sense not to touch.

The other, a two pitch affair on the lower slabs of Cerro San Bernardo; wonderful glacial polished stuff that took a few good cams, and one of my titanium pins Jaime slammed home with a crude hammer borrowed from the ski resort tool shed.

Jaime and Katie should be down from the mountains soon, and as Jaime was playing nice with his camera, some photos should turn up on his blog. Yeah! check them out along with Katie´s account of the storm!

3 days or so here in currently tropical Mendoza, then I´m off to Aconcagua, the highest peak outside of the Himalaya.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Escape Velocity

Escape velocity is the speed when the kinetic energy of an object is equal to the magnitude of its gravitational potential energy. It is commonly described as the speed needed to "break free" from a gravitational field.

Kinetic energy, movement, change. The antithesis of stasis.

Time to launch.

A couple photos of new friends climbing in Joshua Tree the past week. And the solo alpine rack. 7 lbs. 100 ft of 8.0mil rope, 100 ft of 5mil cord, 2 titanium ice screws, 3 titanium pins, 6 biners, and some 1/2 inch webbing. 7 lbs of security in the face of the unknown. 7 lbs also could be 5 days worth of food. Choices will arise, and decisions made.












Monday, January 5, 2009

Day Dreaming of a New Reality

--------------->
dreaming of less of this. The business has been sold and is in good hands.


<------------ and lots more of this

Jan 29 I fly to Argentina. Time to clear my head, examine all the opportunities that await me, and find some adventure.






















Sunday, January 4, 2009

New Year's in KY con Buzzards

I tend to do things 'a bit differently.'

Like driving to North Carolina and back for the holidays to visit my folks.

Adventure can happen when you least expect it. In Shelbyville, KY for instance. My truck decided to temporarily give up the ghost for a few days in that neck of the woods, where I met some generous and unique folks.

The highlight of this unexpected stopover involved a late-night walk into the woods to find a bivy, a sycamore tree full of roosting turkey vultures, and a cold front making beautiful music in the tree tops.

It's hard to say who was more startled, me or the buzzards. Eventually we all got a good night's sleep.